Screw Cap VS Traditional Cork
One of the most common controversies in my wine bar is the argument over traditional cork, or screw cap capsules, also known as stelvin. Stelvin capsules are different from traditional corks in that they don?t allow any air to ever touch the wine, and remove the possibility of a corked bottle. The same way liquor bottles are closed, the aspect of this new capsule creates much wine for thought.
First, we should examine the reason stelvin was utilized in the first place. A server in a restaurant will pour you a taste of wine prior to pouring every glass. The reason for this is mainly a chemical called 2, 4, 6 ? Trichloranisole (TCA). TCA is byproduct of cork sterilization which is more common in lower quality cork. As a cork is squeezed into a bottle of wine, droplets of this chemical can seep into the wine creating a musty and moldy flavor and sent. Hence a corked bottle of wine!
It is estimated that one in twenty, or five percent, of all bottles containing natural cork capsules are ?corked?. When a bottle is sent back due to TCA we send the bottle back to the distributor who gives my establishment a credit. The distributor sends the bottle back to the vineyard or winery for their credit. Ultimately, the vineyard loses the money. It is in my opinion that every time this happens, we as consumers receive less quality wine. If the winery loses less due to this phenomenon, the theory would suggest, they could add this capital to their wine production and give us better product. So I say, good for stelvin tops! However, there is always a flip side.
Many opponents to this wine technology have argued the point of cellaring. Natural corks allow air to flow to the wine at a slow rate over time. Stelvin tops do not allow any air to reach the wine. So, herein lies the problem. Can I cellar a screw cap wine and expect maturity, or is true cork the only way to go? The truth is?. No one knows. However, most expensive or premium producers have shied away from the screwzies. The major exception is Plumpjack vineyards who offer a reserve cabernet in both screw top and traditional cork.
Bottom line, expect these screw tops to gain more playing time with lesser priced bottles, and let the expensive producers keep their traditional ?pop!?
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