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California Chardonnay, like other wines from the same state, commonly contains similar threads from bottle to bottle.  Two of my favorites are butter and oak.  The flavor of strong oak is imparted by using younger oak barrels.  The second is butter, imparted by malolactic or secondary fermentation.  This is a process of a change in wine where tart malic acid is converted to softer-tasting lactic acid.  This is a bacterial fermentation similar to the making of yogurt or sour cream.  A wine undergoing malolactic conversion will be cloudy due to the presence of bacteria, and may have an uncanny smell of buttered popcorn.

Mount Eden “Wolff Vineyard” Chardonnay, Edna Valley, California, 2004

In 1976 Edna Valley wine pioneer Andy Macgregor began the production of what is now known as Mount Eden’s Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay.   This vineyard is one of the oldest in the entire Central Coast of California.  Rich butter form a heavy malolactic fermentation adds to a great full mouth feel.  Round and luscious tropical fruits dominate this wine on the front. With a very complicated palate, it is a shining example of one of the yummiest chardonnays grown in California’s Central Coast area.

Marimar Estate “Dobles Lias” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, 2003

This is what I call a BIG chardonnay.  At first glance I noticed the very dark hue, and extreme viscous nature of the wine.  This viscosity comes from an extremely high lees to wine ratio, by which the wine is aged 21 months sur lie.  Lees are essentially the left over yeasts in the bottom of a barrel after fermentation.  The winemaker actually adds extra lees from other barrels and then stirs them in to incorporate the extra yeast.  This stirring is a Burgundian technique called “Batonage”.  The final product is a wine with double lees, or “Dobles Lias”.  This extended lees aging creates notes of toasty biscuits.  We have some very interesting layers of nutty flavor, and a touch of spice. The butter creates a powerhouse of texture, not to be overdone by the strong new oak heavily imparted on this wine.  Amazingly well balanced, with a crisp finish and lingering aftertaste.

Dutton Goldfield “Dutton Ranch” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, 2004

The Dutton Ranch Chardonnay is produced from grapes grown in the coolest climates of the Russian River Valley.  Foggy mornings, warm afternoons, and a cooling evening breeze from the Pacific Ocean make this the ideal climate for Chardonnay grapes.  Made with 100% barrel and malolactic fermentation, the batonage occurs twice monthly, and the wine is aged for 10 months in French barrels (50% new oak).  While both American and French oak contribute tannin and aroma, French oak contains more tannins and flavor components and has a less obviously “oaky” flavor and smell than American oak. The wine displays a core of citrus overlaid by pear and peach, and the nose displays spice and seedy overtones. The wine is particularly lush, with some cool notes of tangerine and lime.

Cline Cellars “Small Berry” Mourvedre, 2004, Oakley, Costa County, California

Planted in thousands of acres of vineyards by Portuguese and Italian immigrants over 100 years ago, the disease phylloxera has left behind only 600 acres in Oakley, half of which is owned by Cline Cellars. In this tiny area outside San Francisco, on the San Joaquin and Sacramento River, Cline controls some of California’s oldest vines of Zinfandel, Carignane and Mourvedre. This vineyard’s terroir plays an important role in its wine’s final character. The phylloxera resistant, sandy soil of Oakley delivers uniquely elegant personality, and nearby eucalyptus trees contribute an unmistakably minty nose and flavor. It is said that a single unnoticed eucalyptus leaf can impart this almost mentholy dynamic to an entire barrel of vino.Aside from that refreshing mint derived from eucalyptus, the grapes themselves contributed a couple of things to this wine. Small yields contribute to the intensely extracted flavors, most notably of tobacco and chocolaty plum. Tannins and acid are well balanced across the palate, which begins fruity, but finishes dry and earthy. Crack a bottle and drink it over an hour or two with your favorite lamb dish and just watch how it develops from the first glass to the last sip.This wine is in that low $30 range, which is a really tough price tag for some folks to swallow. It’s not cheap enough to drink every day, but it’s not really expensive enough when you’re trying to splurge. Take my word for it and pick this wine up while you can; you’ll thank me for it later. 

I Consider myself a serious beer drinker and a novice in the world of wine drinking and my budget is definitely smaller than that of a serious wine connoisseur. The bottles I usually buy range between $10-$20, with a $20 Bottle being a bottle I buy for a special occassion. With this said I bought two bottles of the Simi 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon to enjoy over the Thanksgiving Holidays and paid $20 a piece for them.

My wife and I had a Simi wine with her father in Florida a couple of years ago. I honestly don’t know what the type was we had then.  It was a red and she liked it a lot and is always saying, “Get Simi, Get Simi.”  So, when I was doing my alcohol shopping for Thanksgiving this year and I had already gotten my beer selections of Troeg’s Mad Elf Christmas brew and Atlantic Brewing Company’s Coal Porter, I went for my wine and saw Simi and decided to splurge for my lady.  We had the first bottle with my parents and brother on Thanksgiving day.  We enjoyed the wine before our annual turkey dinner while we were snacking on some of my mom’s wonderful mexican dip and chips and hummus. The wine was definitely a hit with my family.  My wife loved it as much as she remembered and it fulfilled her “Get Simi, Get Simi” cravings.  My brother who probably has the most sophisticated tastes out of the group there loved it and mumbled something about berries and tasting wet and I thought hmmm, isn’t it liquid, but that’s beside the point.  I loved it and would describe it as being very smooth with no offensive bitter flavors, which I sometimes hear as being tannins as well as a nice berry taste that stuck with me for the period between sips.  I love wines that are smooth bordering on velvety with no bitterness and offering my tongue some suddle flavors to enjoy.  I definitely found that with this wine and would utter my wife’s words “Get Simi, Get Simi” along with her.  The second bottle was enjoyed two days later at my mother-in-laws house.  My brother-in-law got most of it and thought it was a good wine for the price.

Robin Lail is a person we affectionately describe as ‘Napa Royalty’. Her great granduncle Gustav Niebaum founded Inglenook Vineyards back in 1879, a winery which was considered by many to be the finest in the country. Her father, John Daniel Jr., worked along side the legendary Robert Mondavi to lay the first building blocks of what is today the Napa Valley appellation. After a five year apprenticeship with Mondavi beginning in 1977, Robin went on to co-found both Dominus and Merryvale. Along with her husband Jon, she sold her Dominus and Merryvale interests, and opened Lail Vineyards in 1995. They make three wines at Lail, and they’re all top notch. 

J. Daniel Cuvee, 2003 - $135

Lail labels the J. Daniel Cuvee, named for John Daniel Jr., their ‘flagship’ wine, and when you taste it, you can see why. The 2003 offering is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, but sacrifices none of its elegance for the depth and muscle it displays. I know what you’re thinking: ‘Hey! Doesn’t cuvee mean it’s a blend'’ Well, yes it does, though not a blend of different grape varietals. In this case the word cuvee implies a blend of different appellations within Napa; both Howell Mountain and Oakville.
 
Production is small (just 800 cases!), but we at the Iron Bridge grabbed enough to go around. When you try this wine, look for plum and cassis on the nose, along with earth and smoke from long aging in the primarily new French oak barrels. There are smooth tannins on the palate, and while it’s big California Cab, its balance makes this wine remarkably approachable now. So grab a couple bottles and decant one now to drink with a nice, juicy steak, and lay the others down for 5 to 15 years.
 
Blueprint, 2003 - $55

Blueprint is Lail’s proprietary blend of Cabernet and Merlot, and is intended to be a simpler version, or ‘outline’, of the J. Daniel Cuvee. Like its big brother, Blueprint is full and elegant, and the grapes hail from both Howell Mountain and Oakville, but with a little St. Helena, and Yountville mixed in. At Lail, the staff prides themselves on producing wines that compliment a meal, and this wines depth of character makes it a great accompaniment for everything from grilled meats to roast chicken and salmon. 

This wine is full bodied with lots of earthy fig flavors, and plum on both the palate and the nose. Aged for 20 months in 40% new French oak, the wine has a smoky, beef jerky bouquet. Winemaker Philippe Melka produced a little more of this than the J. Daniel Cuvee, but at 1400 cases, it’s not exactly Beringer White Zin. So run, don’t walk, to the Iron Bridge and pick up some of this delicious wine. 

Georgia, 2004 - $100 

Back in 2002, Lail Vineyards expanded their tiny selection, and moved in a completely new direction by bottling their first white wine. The %100 Sauvignon Blanc was released to celebrate the birth of Robin Lail’s granddaughter, Georgia Eileen Dixon. Created in a more Bordeaux-like style than most other fruit forward, California Sauvignon Blancs, this wine displays a citric, floral nose, along with a crisp acidity and refreshing minerality. Look for tropical fruit and vanilla on the palate, with only light oak characteristics, despite being oak aged for a lengthy 21 months.  

Expensive Sauvignon Blanc you say’ Well yeah, but trust me it’s worth it, and at a minuscule 180 cases, you may want to jump on this while it’s still around. Drink this wine only slightly chilled with white fish and meats over the next 5-10 years.

Mount Eden Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon

Santa Cruz, California, 2002 - $40

It’s always nice to save money on a good value bottle. Sometimes, however, it can be satisfying to splurge ever so slightly. Unfortunately, the market is flooded with $30-50 wine which isn’t worth the price tag, and California Cabernet is no exception. That’s why I’ve decided to recommend this Mount Eden Cab: a wine that you can feel comfortable investing in.

The unique location of this vineyard, especially for Cabernet vines, contributes greatly to the character of its wine. At 2000 feet above the Santa Clara Valley, the costal climate is cool, providing refreshing acidity and moderate alcohol. The 2002 growing season was cool and long; the winemaker’s expectations were high. The nose is reminiscent of lead pencil and dark berries, while the palate is full of earthy currant and licorice. Barrel tannins are apparent throughout the long finish, along with pepper and bitter chocolate.

The winery recommends cellaring this wine for as much as 15 years, though I maintain it is quite enjoyable now, especially after some air exposure. Throw it in a decanter and drink it an hour or two later with a thick, juicy steak.

Duckhorn Vineyards Estate Grown Cabernet

Napa Valley, California, 2003 - $100

Who doesn’t like to spoil themselves from time to time’ Well if you’re having trouble deciding on a bottle to do it with, I’m here to help. Few things are more indulgent and decadent than a really nice California Cabernet, and Duckhorn has one of the best. So if you’re looking for a big meaty wine, and you don’t mind spending a couple bucks to find it, well look no further. After all, you’re worth it.

The 2003 growing season was atypical, and the bizarre weather patterns ultimately resulted in lower yields at harvest. Grapes are collected several times throughout harvest from three estate vineyards, with only mature fruit being picked on each pass. The wine is aged for 20 months in 100% new French oak, which is apparent on both the nose and the palate. Also look for aromas of dark berries and cocoa, and flavors of blue and raspberry, along with a hint of vanilla spice. The tannins are well structured, and apparent throughout the long, layered finish.

For the weight of this wine, it is remarkably well balanced and ready to drink. It may improve with some aging, as much as ten years, though I think the best bet is to drink it on the next cold night. Pair it with a roaring fire, and good friends.

Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2003

There are people out there who are literally paying thousands of dollars for single bottles of some California Cabernets, but the folks at Avalon don’t think that makes any sense, and neither do I. The truth is you don’t have to spend a lot of money to get a great bottle of wine. Avalon’s Napa Valley offering is the embodiment of this philosophy. While one of my colleagues has already written about another Avalon wine, I think it is importnat to reiterate the value of such an underpriced wine.

Winemaker Alex Cose sources fruit from all over the Valley to produce a wine which demonstrates the depth that Napa grapes can deliver. The ‘Rutherford Dust’ is particularly apparent in this bottle. On the nose look for concentrated fruit like cherry and plum framed by tobacco and caramel. Blueberry and cassis on the palate give way to a lingering finish of nutmeg and oak. The wine is full, yet remarkably well balanced.

This wine is delicious, and at 15 bucks cheap enough to drink every day, so stock up with a case or two. Enjoy with red meats and stinky cheeses, or alongside the last few barbeques of the year.

Monticello Vineyards Rose of Syrah, 2004, Napa Valley, California 

Ok, I know what you?re thinking. How could a guy who claims to have a knowledge of fine wines, and a discriminating palate, truly be drinking, and reviewing, a pink wine. Well, first of all, this ain’t no White Zin. And second of all, real men drink pink, especially dry rose. It’s a perfect summertime wine, an ideal accompaniment for any barbeque and when it’s done well it can have muscle, depth of character and elegance. The Corley family at Monticello Vineyards is just the group to handle this task.

At my wine bar in Columbia, Maryland we have the exclusive retail rights for Monticello wines in the state, so of course we love all of their products. However, in the midst of their wide range of world renowned reds, I fear their gorgeous roseay be going underappreciated. The nose of this wine is floral, with rose petals and hints of cranberries. On the palate are sweeter fruit like strawberries and cherries, though the wine is definitely dry with its crisp, refreshing acidity. Stainless steel fermenting and neutral oak aging make for a clean finish.

This wine is the perfect pairing for nothing more than a warm summer day, though it’s great with any seafood dish. Try it with fruit salad, lamb chops with fresh herbs or any fowl. For dessert, mild cheeses and figs.

Even a quality rose isn’t likely to hurt your wallet too badly. Monticello gets about $16 for this example, though if you want it in Maryland to go with your crabs this summer, you?ll have to get it from us at the Iron Bridge Wine Co.

I’M Chardonnay, 2003, Sonoma County

The Mondavi Family has a long history of wine making in the new world. Robert is directly responsible for the advancement of many techniques that are still used today, including cold fermentation, the use of French oak barrels and the use of steel tanks. He was also responsible for popularizing the Sauvignon Blanc grape and starting the first blind tastings in California. Although most of his relatives have moved on to their own endeavors, they remain largely in the wine business. The “I’M” line of wines are named for Isabel Mondavi, the wife of Robert’s son Michael, and are designed to her specifications…

Everything, from the style of I’M Chardonnay to the appearance of the label, is modeled after Isabel?s designs. Even the shape of the bottle, that is the slender Bordeaux style, is used because it more easily fits in her hand than the fat Burgundy bottle, which is classically used for chardonnay. The wine itself is made for Isabel by her son Rob in the typical California styling of rich butter and oak, the characteristics which Isabel looks for in her chardonnays.

The I’M Chardonnay is actually a blend of juice from three different regions: Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley and Knights Valley. While the Alexander and Knights Valleys are warm, lending weight and minerality to the wine, the cooler Russia River brings ripe acidity and citrus fruit, with hints of banana. The wine is oak aged in French and American cooperage and endures a second fermentation known as malolactic fermentation, where the malic acid is converted into lactic acid. This provides the warm, round mouth feel of butter and oak that Isabel loves.

For pairing I recommend hearty fish with heavy butter sauces. Try scallops or rockfish with fingerling potatoes and spinach in garlic, white wine and cream. Follow with smoky Gouda and top it all off with brandy and a cigar. What could be finer?

This wine is an absolute steal at around $17. It goes to show that the younger generations of Mondavis are no slouches themselves. Watch for big things from this group.

Terra Valentine, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District

So far everything I?ve reviewed on this blog has been wines I truly like. Well this wine is different. That’s because this wine I absolutely love. In fact, it may be my favorite wine at this particular price point, and is definitely my favorite California cab for the money. The guys at Terra Valentine have only been in the wine business since 1995, but under the leadership of skilled businessman Angus Wurtele, Terra Valentine has become a world class winery. Their production is small, but their goal to create some of the world?s finest cabernet has not gone unrealized…

In 2002, Spring Mountain enjoyed a long, warm growing season, making for deep rich fruit. On the nose this is characterized by black boysenberry, which is accentuated with spice and vanilla from the oak aging. This broad shouldered, mountain cab fills the palate, but remains surprisingly elegant throughout the long finish. Dark, chewy fruit is punctuated with creamy caramel from 20 months in French oak. 

Grilled meats from lamb chops to marinated sirloin streaks can pair well with this wine. Also try heavy cheeses and rich tobaccos. Really any hardy accompaniment should do well.

This wine is an absolute steal at $35, but look for the price to skyrocket in upcoming vintages, as this wine is receiving top ratings from well respected winos everywhere. Keep your eyes open for Terra Valentine’s Wurtele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon as well. A bit more expensive, but perfect for a few years in your cellar. On the other hand, the Spring Mountain cab is drinking great now, and should continue to do so for at least 10 years.