California Chardonnay, like other wines from the same state, commonly contains similar threads from bottle to bottle. Two of my favorites are butter and oak. The flavor of strong oak is imparted by using younger oak barrels. The second is butter, imparted by malolactic or secondary fermentation. This is a process of a change in wine where tart malic acid is converted to softer-tasting lactic acid. This is a bacterial fermentation similar to the making of yogurt or sour cream. A wine undergoing malolactic conversion will be cloudy due to the presence of bacteria, and may have an uncanny smell of buttered popcorn.
Mount Eden “Wolff Vineyard” Chardonnay, Edna Valley, California, 2004
In 1976 Edna Valley wine pioneer Andy Macgregor began the production of what is now known as Mount Eden’s Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay. This vineyard is one of the oldest in the entire Central Coast of California. Rich butter form a heavy malolactic fermentation adds to a great full mouth feel. Round and luscious tropical fruits dominate this wine on the front. With a very complicated palate, it is a shining example of one of the yummiest chardonnays grown in California’s Central Coast area.
Marimar Estate “Dobles Lias” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, 2003
This is what I call a BIG chardonnay. At first glance I noticed the very dark hue, and extreme viscous nature of the wine. This viscosity comes from an extremely high lees to wine ratio, by which the wine is aged 21 months sur lie. Lees are essentially the left over yeasts in the bottom of a barrel after fermentation. The winemaker actually adds extra lees from other barrels and then stirs them in to incorporate the extra yeast. This stirring is a Burgundian technique called “Batonage”. The final product is a wine with double lees, or “Dobles Lias”. This extended lees aging creates notes of toasty biscuits. We have some very interesting layers of nutty flavor, and a touch of spice. The butter creates a powerhouse of texture, not to be overdone by the strong new oak heavily imparted on this wine. Amazingly well balanced, with a crisp finish and lingering aftertaste.
Dutton Goldfield “Dutton Ranch” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, 2004
The Dutton Ranch Chardonnay is produced from grapes grown in the coolest climates of the Russian River Valley. Foggy mornings, warm afternoons, and a cooling evening breeze from the Pacific Ocean make this the ideal climate for Chardonnay grapes. Made with 100% barrel and malolactic fermentation, the batonage occurs twice monthly, and the wine is aged for 10 months in French barrels (50% new oak). While both American and French oak contribute tannin and aroma, French oak contains more tannins and flavor components and has a less obviously “oaky” flavor and smell than American oak. The wine displays a core of citrus overlaid by pear and peach, and the nose displays spice and seedy overtones. The wine is particularly lush, with some cool notes of tangerine and lime.
