Archive for the 'Malbec' Category

Paul Hobbs Does it Again

Pascual Toso, Magdalena Toso        2002

From California Chardonnay to Argentinean Malbec, Paul Hobbs does it all. He’s a true North American winemaker, but lately he’s found a new passion south of the border. His Argentinean wines range in price from as low as $20 up to a couple hundred.

Hobbs is so versatile, he’s even found time to consult with other wineries, including one of my personal favorites: Argentina’s Pascal Toso. He’s currently working as one of the winemakers for Magdalena Toso; a $100 Mendoza Malbec which exemplifies Hobb’s brilliance with this varietal. The wine is big and bold, yet elegant and well structured. The 24 months of oak aging add vanilla and smoke on the nose. The palate is full of ripe plum and raspberries, with a finish of chocolate and coffee. It’s showing well now, though better after an hour of decanter time. The 5% Cabernet also adds structure and aging ability, so drink this monster over the next 10 years.

This is a great wine for Memorial Day barbequing. Beef, lamb and game meats, especially smoked, work well with big Malbec like this one.

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, Argentina, Malbec | on April 7th, 2008 | No Comments »

What Does a Patagonian Goose and an Argentinean Winery Have in Common?

Well for starters their name. A Kaiken is a South American goose which flies over the Andes, traversing the lands between Chile and Argentina. This is why the folks at Montes, a well respected Chilean winery, chose this name for their Argentinean project. The idea was to take the world class grapes of Argentina and couple it with the experience of both Chilean and Argentinean winemakers to produce praise-worthy wines at reasonable prices. The verdict? Success!

At Kaiken they do four wines for now. Two Cabernets and two Malbec. At around 12 bucks a pop is the Reserve label of Cab and Malbec. In the Cab, look for black olive and plum on the nose, along with a bouquet of vanilla and bitter chocolate. The palate is rich with dark fruit and a long finish. The Malbec is lighter, but not lacking in intensity. Ripe cherries and raspberries give way to butterscotch and tobacco on the nose, followed by supple tannins and jammy fruit.

Kaiken’s other labels are the Ultra Cabernet and Ultra Malbec, and at closer to $20, these two are really great bargains. The first is a true Argentinean Cab. Deep, brooding black cherry and currant frame the spicy tannins. Surprisingly elegant with some definite aging potential. Red berries and tobacco define the Malbec. It’s velvety smooth for such a full bodied example of this varietal, with toasty vanilla on the long finish.

Pair these wines with beef and heavier game like venison and wild boar. Smoked meats, cheeses and cigars also make magnificent accompaniments. With the sort of reputation Montes has already made for themselves in Chile, you can count on Kaiken to deliver equally delicious wines in Argentina.

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, Caberbet, Chile, Argentina, Malbec | on January 10th, 2007 | 1 Comment »

You Don’t Have to Drink That Stuff: Alternatives for White Zin Drinkers

There’s an epidemic in this country. Beringer alone is making over eight million cases of White Zinfandel a year, and Americans are actually drinking this stuff. I mean people in Europe are eating chocolate covered bugs, but they won’t touch this completely unsophisticated, quintessential American interpretation of “wine”. The truth is there are a lot of options out there for all you White Zin drinkers that won’t have all of us wine geeks snickering at you from the next table. You want it fruity? No problem. You want it sweet? No problem. You even want it pink? We got that, too. So if you’re tired of looking the fool when you’re drinking wine with friends, or if you just can’t find anything to drink when you’re hanging at The Bridge, (that’s  my wine bar) well give these wines a whirl; you’ll thank me for it.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, RK Riesling, 2005, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany      $18

White Zin is frequently described as being off-dry, or semi-sweet. If this is why you like it – because it reminds you more of grape juice than of wine – well than you should definitely spend some time exploring the world of Riesling. There are both dry and sweet examples, but if you’re a big White Zin fan, I’d recommend something like the RK Riesling from Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, with subtle sugar and balanced acidity. German winemakers have been producing Riesling for centuries, and von Kesselstatt recently celebrated their 650th anniversary, so I think it’s safe to say these guys have the experience to produce some pretty awesome stuff.

I prefer Riesling to White Zinfandel because of its superior complexity and brilliance. The sugar brings balance and substance to the wine, instead of disguising the wines true nature as in White Zin. The RK Riesling is fruit forward and citric, as Riesling should be, with delightful minerality throughout. Sweet but not sugary, and acidic but definitely not sour, this wine is nothing if not well-balanced. Pair with all your favorite spicy dishes and Asian cuisine.

Piazzo Comm. Armando, Moscato d’Asti, 2005, Piedmont, Italy      $15

So, Riesling isn’t fun enough for you? Maybe you’re a little attached to the excitement of drinking pink? Well when you want fun you can’t beat bubbles. Moscato d’Asti, from the southeastern corner of the Piedmont region in Italy, is an effervescent sparkler called frizante; which means it has about half the bubbles of a traditional sparkling wine. The mild sweetness is balanced by lively acidity and accented by a beautiful, fragrant nose.

This example of Moscato d’Asti displays a bright floral nose of honeysuckle and aromatic herbs. Sweet peaches and honey, coupled with the refreshing tingle of tiny bubbles and a clean finish, make for an exciting taste adventure. Drink this wine soon and often with all your fruity desserts, or even as an aperitif.  

Dominio del Plata, Crios de Susana Balbo, Rosé of Malbec, 2006, Mendoza, Argentina      $15  

Alright, if it absolutely has to be pink lets look into wines that actually say “rosé” on the label. Enter Susana Balbo: one of Argentina’s premier winemakers, and a woman working in a male dominated Argentinean industry. Producing a wider variety of wines than any other Argentinean producer, and being the first winemaker from Argentina to work as a consultant outside of her country has given Susana an unparalleled level of experience in South American winemaking.

Susana Balbo’s “Crios” line of wine is her second label. Meaning “offspring”, the Crios wines are inspired by her two children and meant to be consumed while they are still young and vibrant; two words which describe her 2006 Rosé of Malbec perfectly. The nose contains tons of strawberry fruit which is joined by cherries and licorice spice on the palate. The subtle sweetness is surprising from such a deep, brooding rosé; perfect for any White Zin enthusiast. Pair this wine with all sorts of food, especially when you have trouble deciding between red and white.     

 

Published in: Sweet, Pink, Italy, Argentina, Germany, Malbec, Riesling, Muscat | on January 9th, 2007 | No Comments »