Pinot…Now That’s Vino!
The Red Wines of Burgundy, France
When you’re talking red Burgundy, you’re talking Pinot Noir; a grape which has enjoyed a serious rise in popularity in recent years, especially here in the states. And when it comes to Pinot, no one’s been doing it longer than the French, and if you ask me, no one does it better. All that experience is important due to the temperamental and delicate nature of the Pinot grape. Along with Pinot’s propensity to mutation, specific growing conditions, including a long cool season, make the varietal difficult to produce. There are three areas in Burgundy where Pinot Noir is produced, making the warm, French illustration of this wine perfect for my January three pack.
Vincent Dureuil-Janthial, 2004, Mercurey, Burgundy, France $28
In the long, narrow region of Burgundy in Eastern France, the Côte Chalônnaise is the southernmost of the Pinot producing appellations. Mercurey is by far the largest and most important subdivision in the Chalônnaise, producing the largest quantity of quality Pinot Noir. Its size and significance has even risen the debate that the Côte Chalônnaise should be renamed Région de Mercurey. Fortunately, the relative obscurity of this region in the U.S. helps to keep domestic prices down.
The wine is deep in color and character. The nose displays dark fruit and spicy, floral aromas, supplemented by a bouquet of vanilla and mildly toasty oak. The palate reminds me of dried cherries and wild mushrooms, with an earthy finish accented by subtle tannins. These wines can actually hold up for five or more years: not bad for Pinot Noir. Beef, lamb and game meats with truffles or other mushrooms are superb pairings, and as always, try some cheese with this wine.
Bouchard Père & Fils, 2004, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy $55
North of the Côte Chalônnaise is the true heart of Burgundy: the Côte D’Or. The name means “slope of gold” for the color of the autumn foliage in this beautiful region. Many of the finest and most expensive wines come from this vicinity. The area is small – only about thirty miles long, and just a mile and a half at its very widest – and is divided into two regions. First, in the north, is the Côte de Nuits, which contains most of the Grand Cru vineyards, Burgundy’s highest classification of quality. Gevrey-Chambertin is one of the largest villages in the Côte de Nuits, though the wine we’re talking about here is a Village wine, not a Premier or Grand Cru.
The nose is rich with both red and black berries, oak and barnyardy earth. It’s robust on the palate, elegant and well balanced, with plenty of fleshy fruit. Once again, the mild tannins offer some aging potential; maybe five or six years. Marinate some venison stakes with a less expensive bottle of red, grill them up, and then crack a bottle of Bouchard’s Gevrey-Chambertin for pairing.
Vincent Girardin, 2003, Chassagne-Montrachet, Burgundy $50
The southern half of the Côte D’Or is known as the Côte de Beaune. In contrast to its neighbor to the north, the Côte de Nuits, this area is better known for its white wines than its red. Unfortunately, the reds from the Côte de Nuits often overshadow those of the Côte de Beaune, sad since they truly are world class Pinots. In fact, it is Corton, a vineyard of the Côte de Beaune, which produces the most Grand Cru reds at about 25%. This particular offering is from the Premier Cru vineyard of Morgeot in Chassagne-Montrachet, and produced by Vincent Girardin, one of my favorite Burgundian winemakers. Chassagne-Montrachet, like the rest of the Côte de Beaune, is actually more well known for its whites, though in fact more acres are planted to Pinot Noir than Chardonnay.
The nose on this medium bodied Pinot is full of fresh cherries and floral minerality. Mildly toasty from 14 months in oak, the palate is reminiscent of fresh blueberries and strawberry jam. You’ve got to try this wine with a rich, savory veal saltimbocca.
