Archive for the 'Red Wine' Category

A Little Slice of Paradise

Mount Eden Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon

Santa Cruz, California, 2002 - $40

It’s always nice to save money on a good value bottle. Sometimes, however, it can be satisfying to splurge ever so slightly. Unfortunately, the market is flooded with $30-50 wine which isn’t worth the price tag, and California Cabernet is no exception. That’s why I’ve decided to recommend this Mount Eden Cab: a wine that you can feel comfortable investing in.

The unique location of this vineyard, especially for Cabernet vines, contributes greatly to the character of its wine. At 2000 feet above the Santa Clara Valley, the costal climate is cool, providing refreshing acidity and moderate alcohol. The 2002 growing season was cool and long; the winemaker’s expectations were high. The nose is reminiscent of lead pencil and dark berries, while the palate is full of earthy currant and licorice. Barrel tannins are apparent throughout the long finish, along with pepper and bitter chocolate.

The winery recommends cellaring this wine for as much as 15 years, though I maintain it is quite enjoyable now, especially after some air exposure. Throw it in a decanter and drink it an hour or two later with a thick, juicy steak.

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, Caberbet, California | on September 26th, 2006 | No Comments »

Stop and Smell the Cabernet

 Duckhorn Vineyards Estate Grown Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Duckhorn Vineyards Estate Grown Cabernet

Napa Valley, California, 2003 - $100

Who doesn’t like to spoil themselves from time to time’ Well if you’re having trouble deciding on a bottle to do it with, I’m here to help. Few things are more indulgent and decadent than a really nice California Cabernet, and Duckhorn has one of the best. So if you’re looking for a big meaty wine, and you don’t mind spending a couple bucks to find it, well look no further. After all, you’re worth it.

The 2003 growing season was atypical, and the bizarre weather patterns ultimately resulted in lower yields at harvest. Grapes are collected several times throughout harvest from three estate vineyards, with only mature fruit being picked on each pass. The wine is aged for 20 months in 100% new French oak, which is apparent on both the nose and the palate. Also look for aromas of dark berries and cocoa, and flavors of blue and raspberry, along with a hint of vanilla spice. The tannins are well structured, and apparent throughout the long, layered finish.

For the weight of this wine, it is remarkably well balanced and ready to drink. It may improve with some aging, as much as ten years, though I think the best bet is to drink it on the next cold night. Pair it with a roaring fire, and good friends.

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, Caberbet, California | on September 26th, 2006 | No Comments »

Another Avalon; Another Great Value

Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2003

There are people out there who are literally paying thousands of dollars for single bottles of some California Cabernets, but the folks at Avalon don’t think that makes any sense, and neither do I. The truth is you don’t have to spend a lot of money to get a great bottle of wine. Avalon’s Napa Valley offering is the embodiment of this philosophy. While one of my colleagues has already written about another Avalon wine, I think it is importnat to reiterate the value of such an underpriced wine.

Winemaker Alex Cose sources fruit from all over the Valley to produce a wine which demonstrates the depth that Napa grapes can deliver. The ‘Rutherford Dust’ is particularly apparent in this bottle. On the nose look for concentrated fruit like cherry and plum framed by tobacco and caramel. Blueberry and cassis on the palate give way to a lingering finish of nutmeg and oak. The wine is full, yet remarkably well balanced.

This wine is delicious, and at 15 bucks cheap enough to drink every day, so stock up with a case or two. Enjoy with red meats and stinky cheeses, or alongside the last few barbeques of the year.

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, Caberbet, California | on September 21st, 2006 | No Comments »

Rhone 101: Getting Acquainted

E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage, 2003, C’ du Rhone France

The C’ du Rhone region of Southern France is one of the most well respected, albeit most complex wine regions of the world. Basically, we’re talking about a 2000 year old wine growing region located on the river Rhone and divided into North and South. In the Southern Rhone, as many as 23 different grape varieties are used to make wine. Most notably are Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan for reds; Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairet and Bourboulenc for whites. In the North, however, only four varietals are permitted for use in wines: Syrah for red and Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne for white.

Crozes-Hermitage is in the Northern Rhone so the reds are all Syrah and the whites all Marsanne-Roussanne. E. Guigal does one of each. The deep purple, red example is full of fruit - black currant and cherries - on the palate, as well as the nose. The soil consists of limestone, clay and silt with sandy gravel, which contributes a slight minerality to the otherwise fruit-forward wine. The finish of spice and olives is long, but subtle, with refined tannins from extensive oak aging.

 

  

  

  

The white Crozes-Hermitage from E. Guigal is a blend of Marsanne with small amounts of Roussanne, so it is fat and dry, full-bodied, yet elegant. Floral on the nose, and citric on the palate, this wine is reminiscent of under ripe pineapple. Honeysuckle gives way to lemon peel, with light oak and bright, crisp acidity. The golden yellow wine is clean and fresh with fruit and minerality.

Pairing is easy; have red meats with the red and white meats with the white. Both do well with cheese. I liked heavier blue cheeses with Syrah and some softer milder brie with the Marsanne. I like duck with either, though not with the same accompaniments. Try mushrooms and demi-glace with the red, pasta and a light tomato sauce with the white. As always, the pairing of a nice cigar should never go overlooked.

Crozes-Hermitage has rich soil, which is thought of as being easier to work with than its neighbors. This fact, along with being the largest region of the Northern Rh? helps to produce quality wines at a good price. E. Guigal’s red and white are both priced around $20-$25. Perhaps my favorite producer in the Rh?onethey do some pricier stuff as well. Look for their Hermitage at about 60 bucks and the Chau de A’mpuis from CR at around $140.

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, Syrah/Shiraz, France | on September 15th, 2006 | No Comments »

Hybrid History Lesson

Rijk?s Pinotage, 2002, Tulbagh, South Africa

Everyone knows about Cabernet and Chardonnay; Merlot and Pinot Grigio. Lots of people know about Pinot Noir and a few have even heard of the Rhone varietal Cinsaut. But who knows what happens when you take Pinot, Cinsaut and introduce a guy named Abraham Izak Perold. This is how we get Pinotage, the quintessential South African varietal…

 

In 1925 Perold created the hybrid grape by pollinating a male Cinsaut flower with Pinot pollen, but the four seedlings that were born were just at the beginning of their journey. The young vines were nearly thrown away, and were later grafted to immune rootstock, narrowly avoiding a local infestation of a viral disease. It was first used to make wine in 1941, but it wasn?t until 1959 that it was recognized as a quality product when it took honors at the Cape Wine Show. The enhanced popularity turned out to be less than a blessing, as increased production resulted in a decrease in quality of product. In fact, in 1976 a group of British Wine Masters described the wine as having the character of “rusty nails” and a nose that was “hot and horrible”. Many producers uprooted their vines and others were extremely hesitant to plant any new Pinotage. 

In 1987 those producers that maintained faith finally received their chance to put Pinotage back on the map; at the Diner’s Club Winemaker of the Year competition, which was dedicated to the misunderstood varietal. The renewed attention reminded collectors of their old cellared bottles, which were found to have aged superbly. So Pinotage survived against impossible odds, which is what brings me here today. 

Let?s be honest, South African wines are not for everybody. They are frequently abrasive and can be disjointed and unbalanced, with excessive tannin and acid. A colleague of mine at the Iron Bridge Wine Company has described their unique terroir as being reminiscent of lion poo. None of these are the case with Rijk?s 2002 Pinotage. Look for banana and red berries on the nose, with smooth vanilla from the mostly new oak. Cherries and peppery spice linger on the palate, along with buttery caramel from the malolactic fermentation. This wine finishes long with cocoa and smoky, but rounded tannins. 

 

Pairing Pinotage is easy. With medium bodied examples, game fish, sushi or ratatouille are good matches. In the case of heavier Pinotage, like Rijk?s 2002, venison and pork ribs do well, especially with rich sauces. The truth is, you can pair this wine with almost anything outside of oily fish, simply because there is a little too much tannin. Personally I did blue stilton and prosciutto, then a dark chocolate ganache cake. All complimented each other brilliantly.

Cheap? No. But it may be the best Pinotage on the planet. I think it’s worth every bit of its $50 price tag. Drink it now for a bold muscley experience, or ten years from now for a fruit forward jam sandwich.

 

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, South Africa | on August 23rd, 2006 | No Comments »

Be True to Your Cab

Terra Valentine, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District

So far everything I?ve reviewed on this blog has been wines I truly like. Well this wine is different. That’s because this wine I absolutely love. In fact, it may be my favorite wine at this particular price point, and is definitely my favorite California cab for the money. The guys at Terra Valentine have only been in the wine business since 1995, but under the leadership of skilled businessman Angus Wurtele, Terra Valentine has become a world class winery. Their production is small, but their goal to create some of the world?s finest cabernet has not gone unrealized…

 

In 2002, Spring Mountain enjoyed a long, warm growing season, making for deep rich fruit. On the nose this is characterized by black boysenberry, which is accentuated with spice and vanilla from the oak aging. This broad shouldered, mountain cab fills the palate, but remains surprisingly elegant throughout the long finish. Dark, chewy fruit is punctuated with creamy caramel from 20 months in French oak. 

Grilled meats from lamb chops to marinated sirloin streaks can pair well with this wine. Also try heavy cheeses and rich tobaccos. Really any hardy accompaniment should do well.

 

Terra Valentine 2002 Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon

This wine is an absolute steal at $35, but look for the price to skyrocket in upcoming vintages, as this wine is receiving top ratings from well respected winos everywhere. Keep your eyes open for Terra Valentine’s Wurtele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon as well. A bit more expensive, but perfect for a few years in your cellar. On the other hand, the Spring Mountain cab is drinking great now, and should continue to do so for at least 10 years.

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, Caberbet, California | on August 22nd, 2006 | No Comments »

Fishing for a great wine?

I had a pleasant surprise over the weekend.  I was visiting a friend north of Baltimore and I picked up a staple wine to enjoy with dinner.  To tell the truth, I had no real expecations.  The wine is inexpensive so I assumed it would be like many mass production wines… mediocre taste, hard core after taste, no real body to speak of. 

 I was very mistaken.  For a mass production wine, the Blue Marlin Shiraz knocked our socks off.  True, it had less body than specialized wines but it had great legs, a great nose, and no harsh after taste.  All for a very moderate price.  If you are looking for a great buy and a wine you can enjoy with friends, try Blue Marlin Shiraz and hopefully you will be as pleasantly surprised as we were.

Blue Marlin Bottles

Blue Marlin Logo

 

From off the coast of Australia comes Blue Marlin: Big, bold, with brilliant coloring and a rich appearance. The Blue Marlin is the strongest and fastest member of the trophy-garnering marlin family, and a symbol of these fruit-forward, full-bodied wines with bold varietal characteristics and soft tannins.

For your active, social lifestyle, Blue Marlin Chardonnay, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot are made from fruit grown in vineyards in South East Australia This area is known for its outstanding fruit quality that makes well-rounded wines for everyday enjoyment. The wines are available in edgy, iconic blue magnum bottles at a suggested retail price of $8.99-10.99.

The Wines
 
Chardonnay
Melon and citrus aromas followed by rich tropical fruit and peach flavors, a round finish and subtle oak.
 
Shiraz
Rich berry fruit and pepper spice aromas, a full-bodied palate with rich jammy fruit and soft tannins.
 
Cabernet / Merlot
Soft, round flavors of ripe plums and luscious blackberries with a spicy finish.

 

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, Syrah/Shiraz, Australia | on August 20th, 2006 | No Comments »

Not Your Mamma’s Zin

Madrigal Vineyards, 2003 Zinfandel, Napa Valley

There’s a reason California producers use the Zinfandel grape to make blush wines, although I’m not sure there’s a good reason to drink it. The fruit forward grape has a high propensity towards sugar, making it ideal for producing the slightly sweet, pink wine enjoyed by so many Americans. But there is an added benefit to all that sugar and fruit: big jammy reds that are well balanced even with their high alcohol…

During fermentation, yeast eats sugar and creates alcohol as a byproduct, so juice with higher sugar can be used to produce higher alcohol in wine. Zinfandel is frequently thought of as having about the highest alcohol content of most wines, frequently over 14% and sometimes as high as 16%+. Madrigal’s 2003 Zin was relatively modest at 13.9%, though I could still pick up alcohol pretty strongly on the nose until the wine had some time to open up.

The wine is a combination of red and black berry on the nose, with a slight hint of white pepper. Lush in the mouth, the palate is of spiced cherries with gentle acidity on the finish. The wine is medium to full bodied, not to spicy like some overly peppery Zins, but never dull or excessively earthy either. 50% new oak imparts some mild smoky character and tannin; just enough to compliment the fruit forward nature of this wine. Rich and silky smooth, this wine is drinking well now and will remain delicious and well balanced through 2010.

This wine is nearly 100% Zinfandel, sourced from Mancini Vineyard and Madrigal Estate in Calistoga, with less than 10% being Petite Sirah and Cabernet. Pairing Zin is easy, as is goes well with any hearty meal. Try it with smoky dishes, especially those with spicy-sweet seasoning. Game like venison and boar go well, along with sharp cheeses. I sipped a glass with a nice, slow burning, robusto cigar.

My experience with Madrigal’s wines has been that they are generally very good values, even with prices reaching upwards of $50. You should be able to find this bottle for under $30, so pick one up and discover what Zinfandel was truly intended for.

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, California, Zinfandel | on August 2nd, 2006 | No Comments »

Deals from South of the Border

Montes Alpha Merlot, 2003, Apalta Valley, Chile

As New World wines garner more and more popularity, they also inevitably become more and more expensive. Over the last ten years quality Australian wines, which used to be a bargain, are now priced comparably to similar French and California wines. There are some deals to be found in Europe, but for the most part, with French, German and Italian wines, you get what you pay for. In fact, world wide, it seems like you’re always getting what you pay for. Well I think we should get more than what we pay for. That’s where South America comes in…

 

Largely influenced by the Bordeaux varietals, respected producers world wide have invested in South American vineyards, perhaps most notably Chilean properties. With California producers like Robert Mondavi, Franciscan and Kendall-Jackson, and French powerhouses like Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and Lafite Rothschild, it seems likely that finding excellent values out of Chile may soon be a thing of the past. Hence, we must all exploit the situation while it is at hand. A great place to start would be Montes’ wines from Colchagua Valley, particularly their Alpha series.

The Alpha series merlot is rich and full, though velvety on the palate, just as merlot should be. Initially the nose is jammy, with lots of cooked fruit like black currant preserves, followed by roasted coffee as a secondary aroma. The earth is largely apparent on the palate, but well balanced by dark fruits like cassis and blackberry. Mineral and graphite give way to cocoa on the finish which is long and robust. Very accessible now, though it grows in the glass, and will certainly cellar well for at least five years.

For pairing, try grilled meats to accentuate the smoky tannins derived from the 15% of cabernet this wine carries. A greasy cheeseburger with fresh veggies sounds good to me. Other options are meaty pastas and heavy cheeses. Even rich, chocolate desserts followed by a fat cigar could be nice.

This bottle retails for about $20, but I wouldn’t expect it to stay so inexpensive for long. The long Chilean growing season, which is opposite from that of Europe and North America, stretches from November to April. Perfectly clear air and clean mountain snow, which melts to feed the Tinguiririca River and the Colchagua Valley vineyards, combine with Pacific maritime breezes and the rich loam clay and loam silt soil to create a brilliant terroir and in turn gorgeous wines. Experts have certainly begun to take notice, with Chilean wine rating high on such prestigious lists as Wine Spectators Top 100. All that’s left now is for the public to take notice before we can really get the prices to be unreasonable for these wines.

 

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, Merlot, Chile | on July 25th, 2006 | No Comments »

Pinot and a Movie

Bogle Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, California, 2004

Pinot Noir has enjoyed an increased level of popularity, at the expense of Merlot, since the movie ?Sideways? was released. It?s a versatile grape, capable of a variety of characteristics, but it?s generally considered to be a light bodied red with low acid and subtle, soft tannins. From Burgundy to Oregon, New Zealand to California, this grape is being grown world wide; even Tasmania has Pinot vines.

In honor of this wine’s love affair with cinema, I opted to sneak it into a movie along with a little food from our neighborhood Cheesecake Factory. The movie was Pirates of the
Caribbean 2 and the food was plain old chicken fingers. A friend of mine swears by the pairing of buttered popcorn with Pinot Noir, so we gave that a whirl as well. Not bad combos all around, though I think some roasted duck breast with fingerling potatoes and a pesto cream sauce would truly have been perfect.

 

Throughout the flick I noticed the wine?s nose had distinct hints of paper cup and dirty movie theater, but upon later inspection from a proper Riedel glass I picked up the expected floral aromatics of rose petals and lilacs. Even with 12 months in oak, the well balanced toasty flavors did nothing to overpower the deep cherry fruit. This Pinot finished surprisingly long, lingering on the palate with heavy fruit giving way to tobacco and rich leather. They wouldn?t let me smoke in the theater, but a petit demitasse cigar would have been a nice addition to the experience.

 

Certainly approachable, but never boring, this wine is a deal at under $20.

Published in: Wine Reviews, Red Wine, Pinot Noir, California | on July 17th, 2006 | No Comments »