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California Chardonnay, like other wines from the same state, commonly contains similar threads from bottle to bottle.  Two of my favorites are butter and oak.  The flavor of strong oak is imparted by using younger oak barrels.  The second is butter, imparted by malolactic or secondary fermentation.  This is a process of a change in wine where tart malic acid is converted to softer-tasting lactic acid.  This is a bacterial fermentation similar to the making of yogurt or sour cream.  A wine undergoing malolactic conversion will be cloudy due to the presence of bacteria, and may have an uncanny smell of buttered popcorn.

Mount Eden “Wolff Vineyard” Chardonnay, Edna Valley, California, 2004

In 1976 Edna Valley wine pioneer Andy Macgregor began the production of what is now known as Mount Eden’s Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay.   This vineyard is one of the oldest in the entire Central Coast of California.  Rich butter form a heavy malolactic fermentation adds to a great full mouth feel.  Round and luscious tropical fruits dominate this wine on the front. With a very complicated palate, it is a shining example of one of the yummiest chardonnays grown in California’s Central Coast area.

Marimar Estate “Dobles Lias” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, 2003

This is what I call a BIG chardonnay.  At first glance I noticed the very dark hue, and extreme viscous nature of the wine.  This viscosity comes from an extremely high lees to wine ratio, by which the wine is aged 21 months sur lie.  Lees are essentially the left over yeasts in the bottom of a barrel after fermentation.  The winemaker actually adds extra lees from other barrels and then stirs them in to incorporate the extra yeast.  This stirring is a Burgundian technique called “Batonage”.  The final product is a wine with double lees, or “Dobles Lias”.  This extended lees aging creates notes of toasty biscuits.  We have some very interesting layers of nutty flavor, and a touch of spice. The butter creates a powerhouse of texture, not to be overdone by the strong new oak heavily imparted on this wine.  Amazingly well balanced, with a crisp finish and lingering aftertaste.

Dutton Goldfield “Dutton Ranch” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, 2004

The Dutton Ranch Chardonnay is produced from grapes grown in the coolest climates of the Russian River Valley.  Foggy mornings, warm afternoons, and a cooling evening breeze from the Pacific Ocean make this the ideal climate for Chardonnay grapes.  Made with 100% barrel and malolactic fermentation, the batonage occurs twice monthly, and the wine is aged for 10 months in French barrels (50% new oak).  While both American and French oak contribute tannin and aroma, French oak contains more tannins and flavor components and has a less obviously “oaky” flavor and smell than American oak. The wine displays a core of citrus overlaid by pear and peach, and the nose displays spice and seedy overtones. The wine is particularly lush, with some cool notes of tangerine and lime.

Just a quick review on a wine you’ve gotta try next time you’re in the mood for something a little sweet. It’s Covey Run Gewurztraminer, and at first I didn’t expect much from this $10 bottle, but when I took that first wiff I knew why it’s been selling like hotcakes. The nose is full of sweet rose pettles and a mild ginny juniper, while the palate is of peach and candied golden raspberries. Drink this wine with all your favorite spicy foods to get that awesome contrast.

Spiros Hatziyiannis, Santorini, Greece, 2002

I love a wine tastes great for a good value, but I also love it when the wine has a great story.  Wine can be a conversation piece just as it can be a delicious intoxicating beverage.  In the case of Spyros Hatziyiannis, this story comes from the region.  On the breathtaking island of Santorini, the production of wine dates back to the time of the Bronze Age. After the devastating volcanic explosion in 1650 the island was covered with volcanic ash.  This catastrophe created the foundation for perfect soil conditions which now produce very distinctive wines. Known for black, volcanic soil beaches, and whitewashed houses, the Aegean island of Santorini is ideal for very dry wines made primarily from Assyrtiko grapes. The average age of the root stock of these vines are 70 years, and many vines date back 150 years or more. 

Spyros Hatziyiannis itself exhibits strong pear and mineral aromas on the bouquet, with just a hint of anise.  The flavors are similar to the nose with some pinot grigio-esque citrus with a fine degree of complexity. The wine has some great tart end notes that are surprisingly rich. 

Santiago Ruiz, Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain, 2005

Again we have a wine rich in tradition and lure.  So the story goes, when the winemaker’s daughter was getting married he created a hand drawn map for attendees to the ceremony.  He also created a treasure map to one of the best wine producers in this region of Spain, as well as the label for the bottle. 

Strong pear on the nose, the wine has an extreme bouquet, with notes of apple and honeysuckle.  On the front the taste is similar to the nose but with added apricot and a hint of grapefruit.  You defiantly will notice the bone dry texture on the back notes which are very a powerful tart citrus.  This comes to very lemon or lime juice taste on the back.  This albarino is a  great deal at the Bridge for $19.  After all, as Rob would say, Pinot Grigio is sooooo 5 minutes ago.

Arabako Txakolina, “Xaramant” Txakoli, Basque, Spain, 2005

First of all, there are some very funny pronunciations here.  Don’t be scared, as we’ll walk you through them.  The title phonetically is [Ara-back-o Chak-o-lina, “Zara-mont”, Chak-o-lee]  This Basque wine contains some amazing Pinot Grigio similar notes.   Some of the care put into this wine is evident in the Basque word meanings.  First, Xaramant means Charming in Basque, and this light white definitely displays a charm as all 120 acres of plantings are almost entirely consumed by the local fishermen.  The local grape is Hondarribi Zuri and fermented entirely in steel.  Zuri means white in Basque, and shows true to the light effervescence of the aroma. This is a good example of the kind of modernization of a lot of older Spanish regions are going for.

I’ve found some almost Sauvignon Blanc notes of grass and juicy fruit present, but the ringing flavor is lemon-lime citrus so common to a Pinot Grigio.  Fill your gullet with fish or chicken on this one.  Try it with feta or cucumber for a true taste adventure sure to please the buds.

Robin Lail is a person we affectionately describe as ‘Napa Royalty’. Her great granduncle Gustav Niebaum founded Inglenook Vineyards back in 1879, a winery which was considered by many to be the finest in the country. Her father, John Daniel Jr., worked along side the legendary Robert Mondavi to lay the first building blocks of what is today the Napa Valley appellation. After a five year apprenticeship with Mondavi beginning in 1977, Robin went on to co-found both Dominus and Merryvale. Along with her husband Jon, she sold her Dominus and Merryvale interests, and opened Lail Vineyards in 1995. They make three wines at Lail, and they’re all top notch. 

J. Daniel Cuvee, 2003 - $135

Lail labels the J. Daniel Cuvee, named for John Daniel Jr., their ‘flagship’ wine, and when you taste it, you can see why. The 2003 offering is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, but sacrifices none of its elegance for the depth and muscle it displays. I know what you’re thinking: ‘Hey! Doesn’t cuvee mean it’s a blend'’ Well, yes it does, though not a blend of different grape varietals. In this case the word cuvee implies a blend of different appellations within Napa; both Howell Mountain and Oakville.
 
Production is small (just 800 cases!), but we at the Iron Bridge grabbed enough to go around. When you try this wine, look for plum and cassis on the nose, along with earth and smoke from long aging in the primarily new French oak barrels. There are smooth tannins on the palate, and while it’s big California Cab, its balance makes this wine remarkably approachable now. So grab a couple bottles and decant one now to drink with a nice, juicy steak, and lay the others down for 5 to 15 years.
 
Blueprint, 2003 - $55

Blueprint is Lail’s proprietary blend of Cabernet and Merlot, and is intended to be a simpler version, or ‘outline’, of the J. Daniel Cuvee. Like its big brother, Blueprint is full and elegant, and the grapes hail from both Howell Mountain and Oakville, but with a little St. Helena, and Yountville mixed in. At Lail, the staff prides themselves on producing wines that compliment a meal, and this wines depth of character makes it a great accompaniment for everything from grilled meats to roast chicken and salmon. 

This wine is full bodied with lots of earthy fig flavors, and plum on both the palate and the nose. Aged for 20 months in 40% new French oak, the wine has a smoky, beef jerky bouquet. Winemaker Philippe Melka produced a little more of this than the J. Daniel Cuvee, but at 1400 cases, it’s not exactly Beringer White Zin. So run, don’t walk, to the Iron Bridge and pick up some of this delicious wine. 

Georgia, 2004 - $100 

Back in 2002, Lail Vineyards expanded their tiny selection, and moved in a completely new direction by bottling their first white wine. The %100 Sauvignon Blanc was released to celebrate the birth of Robin Lail’s granddaughter, Georgia Eileen Dixon. Created in a more Bordeaux-like style than most other fruit forward, California Sauvignon Blancs, this wine displays a citric, floral nose, along with a crisp acidity and refreshing minerality. Look for tropical fruit and vanilla on the palate, with only light oak characteristics, despite being oak aged for a lengthy 21 months.  

Expensive Sauvignon Blanc you say’ Well yeah, but trust me it’s worth it, and at a minuscule 180 cases, you may want to jump on this while it’s still around. Drink this wine only slightly chilled with white fish and meats over the next 5-10 years.

Up till recently I used to be a terrior snob.  Always thinking the best wines must come from the most premier vineyards.  So needless to say Pennsylvania was not on the top of my list.  However, after reading a recent article in Wine Spectator which reported that there is now at least one winery in every state in the union (yes even Alaska!) I broke my snobby habit. After trying Chaddsford Miller Estate Chardonnay, I couldn?t have made a better decision…

Aged in 50% in new French and Hungarian oak for 8 months, the imparted flavor is not as overbearing as some hoity toity California chards.  Although the winery claims the wine does go through mallo-lactic fermentation the wine is very crisp and without that ‘hard water’ butter coating on the palate.  The result is a White Burgundy copycat.  There are overwhelming notes of crisp fresh apple that encompass this wine.  There are also lower notes which are more dynamic.  These include just a soup of sweet cream, and a flutter of lemon zest.

Expect to pay around $25-$30

I’M Chardonnay, 2003, Sonoma County

The Mondavi Family has a long history of wine making in the new world. Robert is directly responsible for the advancement of many techniques that are still used today, including cold fermentation, the use of French oak barrels and the use of steel tanks. He was also responsible for popularizing the Sauvignon Blanc grape and starting the first blind tastings in California. Although most of his relatives have moved on to their own endeavors, they remain largely in the wine business. The “I’M” line of wines are named for Isabel Mondavi, the wife of Robert’s son Michael, and are designed to her specifications…

Everything, from the style of I’M Chardonnay to the appearance of the label, is modeled after Isabel?s designs. Even the shape of the bottle, that is the slender Bordeaux style, is used because it more easily fits in her hand than the fat Burgundy bottle, which is classically used for chardonnay. The wine itself is made for Isabel by her son Rob in the typical California styling of rich butter and oak, the characteristics which Isabel looks for in her chardonnays.

The I’M Chardonnay is actually a blend of juice from three different regions: Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley and Knights Valley. While the Alexander and Knights Valleys are warm, lending weight and minerality to the wine, the cooler Russia River brings ripe acidity and citrus fruit, with hints of banana. The wine is oak aged in French and American cooperage and endures a second fermentation known as malolactic fermentation, where the malic acid is converted into lactic acid. This provides the warm, round mouth feel of butter and oak that Isabel loves.

For pairing I recommend hearty fish with heavy butter sauces. Try scallops or rockfish with fingerling potatoes and spinach in garlic, white wine and cream. Follow with smoky Gouda and top it all off with brandy and a cigar. What could be finer?

This wine is an absolute steal at around $17. It goes to show that the younger generations of Mondavis are no slouches themselves. Watch for big things from this group.

Okay, so my colleague has suggested that I preface this review with a note of explanation.  My love for White Bugundy is absolute.  However, I feel that when I find an exceptional producer, in an albeit exceptionally large area, who has produced amazing wines time and time again, I will never stop praising their product.  In this case Verget has done it again with their Saint-Veran, 2004…

This wine comes from some of the best terroir sites in the villages of Saint-Veran, Priss鬠Leynes and Davay鮠Created completely in stainless tank, the nose comes across nutty, and covered with fresh cut flowers.  The tastes are a whirlwind of minerals and apples. The wine has an unbelievable length of finish, which demonstrates the winemaker?s care in creation, and selection of fruit.
 
I could only imagine walking out into some of the most beautiful vineyards, on the most gorgeous land, to create such a breathtaking wine.  I could sit, watch the sun fall over the vineyard, and enjoy a meal of mushroom risotto and fresh French cheese.  What a life!