Rhone 101: Getting Acquainted
E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage, 2003, C’ du Rhone France
The C’ du Rhone region of Southern France is one of the most well respected, albeit most complex wine regions of the world. Basically, we’re talking about a 2000 year old wine growing region located on the river Rhone and divided into North and South. In the Southern Rhone, as many as 23 different grape varieties are used to make wine. Most notably are Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan for reds; Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairet and Bourboulenc for whites. In the North, however, only four varietals are permitted for use in wines: Syrah for red and Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne for white.
Crozes-Hermitage is in the Northern Rhone so the reds are all Syrah and the whites all Marsanne-Roussanne. E. Guigal does one of each. The deep purple, red example is full of fruit - black currant and cherries - on the palate, as well as the nose. The soil consists of limestone, clay and silt with sandy gravel, which contributes a slight minerality to the otherwise fruit-forward wine. The finish of spice and olives is long, but subtle, with refined tannins from extensive oak aging.
The white Crozes-Hermitage from E. Guigal is a blend of Marsanne with small amounts of Roussanne, so it is fat and dry, full-bodied, yet elegant. Floral on the nose, and citric on the palate, this wine is reminiscent of under ripe pineapple. Honeysuckle gives way to lemon peel, with light oak and bright, crisp acidity. The golden yellow wine is clean and fresh with fruit and minerality.
Pairing is easy; have red meats with the red and white meats with the white. Both do well with cheese. I liked heavier blue cheeses with Syrah and some softer milder brie with the Marsanne. I like duck with either, though not with the same accompaniments. Try mushrooms and demi-glace with the red, pasta and a light tomato sauce with the white. As always, the pairing of a nice cigar should never go overlooked.
Crozes-Hermitage has rich soil, which is thought of as being easier to work with than its neighbors. This fact, along with being the largest region of the Northern Rh? helps to produce quality wines at a good price. E. Guigal’s red and white are both priced around $20-$25. Perhaps my favorite producer in the Rh?onethey do some pricier stuff as well. Look for their Hermitage at about 60 bucks and the Chau de A’mpuis from CR at around $140.
