The Wines of Lail Vineyards: A Winery Whose Tradition is as Rich as Their Wines
Robin Lail is a person we affectionately describe as ‘Napa Royalty’. Her great granduncle Gustav Niebaum founded Inglenook Vineyards back in 1879, a winery which was considered by many to be the finest in the country. Her father, John Daniel Jr., worked along side the legendary Robert Mondavi to lay the first building blocks of what is today the Napa Valley appellation. After a five year apprenticeship with Mondavi beginning in 1977, Robin went on to co-found both Dominus and Merryvale. Along with her husband Jon, she sold her Dominus and Merryvale interests, and opened Lail Vineyards in 1995. They make three wines at Lail, and they’re all top notch.
J. Daniel Cuvee, 2003 - $135
Lail labels the J. Daniel Cuvee, named for John Daniel Jr., their ‘flagship’ wine, and when you taste it, you can see why. The 2003 offering is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, but sacrifices none of its elegance for the depth and muscle it displays. I know what you’re thinking: ‘Hey! Doesn’t cuvee mean it’s a blend'’ Well, yes it does, though not a blend of different grape varietals. In this case the word cuvee implies a blend of different appellations within Napa; both Howell Mountain and Oakville.
Production is small (just 800 cases!), but we at the Iron Bridge grabbed enough to go around. When you try this wine, look for plum and cassis on the nose, along with earth and smoke from long aging in the primarily new French oak barrels. There are smooth tannins on the palate, and while it’s big California Cab, its balance makes this wine remarkably approachable now. So grab a couple bottles and decant one now to drink with a nice, juicy steak, and lay the others down for 5 to 15 years.
Blueprint, 2003 - $55
Blueprint is Lail’s proprietary blend of Cabernet and Merlot, and is intended to be a simpler version, or ‘outline’, of the J. Daniel Cuvee. Like its big brother, Blueprint is full and elegant, and the grapes hail from both Howell Mountain and Oakville, but with a little St. Helena, and Yountville mixed in. At Lail, the staff prides themselves on producing wines that compliment a meal, and this wines depth of character makes it a great accompaniment for everything from grilled meats to roast chicken and salmon.
This wine is full bodied with lots of earthy fig flavors, and plum on both the palate and the nose. Aged for 20 months in 40% new French oak, the wine has a smoky, beef jerky bouquet. Winemaker Philippe Melka produced a little more of this than the J. Daniel Cuvee, but at 1400 cases, it’s not exactly Beringer White Zin. So run, don’t walk, to the Iron Bridge and pick up some of this delicious wine.
Georgia, 2004 - $100
Back in 2002, Lail Vineyards expanded their tiny selection, and moved in a completely new direction by bottling their first white wine. The %100 Sauvignon Blanc was released to celebrate the birth of Robin Lail’s granddaughter, Georgia Eileen Dixon. Created in a more Bordeaux-like style than most other fruit forward, California Sauvignon Blancs, this wine displays a citric, floral nose, along with a crisp acidity and refreshing minerality. Look for tropical fruit and vanilla on the palate, with only light oak characteristics, despite being oak aged for a lengthy 21 months.
Expensive Sauvignon Blanc you say’ Well yeah, but trust me it’s worth it, and at a minuscule 180 cases, you may want to jump on this while it’s still around. Drink this wine only slightly chilled with white fish and meats over the next 5-10 years.
